Roaming South America

Tabalosos, Perú

July 19, 2025

Tucked in a narrow valley just north of Tarapoto, the little town of Tabalosos isn't trying to impress anyone - and honestly, that's kind of its charm. It's not a tourist town, it doesn't have flashy sights, and if you're stopping here, you're probably either visiting family or grabbing a bite to eat on your way through. And yes, if you're looking for empanadas like I was, don't bother - they don't exist here. Not a single one in sight.

Lamas, Perú

July 16, 2025

Lamas, Perú, sits just a short drive north of Tarapoto, but the vibe couldn’t be more different. Built across three tiers of hillside terrain, it’s earned the nickname La Ciudad de los Tres Pisos—the City of Three Levels. With around 17,000 residents, it’s the capital of its province and proudly wears the title of Capital Folklórica de la Amazonía Peruana (Folkloric Capital of the Peruvian Amazon). The elevation shift gives it stunning views in every direction—and a few leg workouts if you’re walking.

Yurimaguas, Perú

July 15, 2025

Yurimaguas, Perú - often called the "Perla del Huallaga" - is a humid, bustling river town located at the junction of the Huallaga, Paranapura, and Shanusi Rivers. It's the largest city in the Alto Amazonas province of the Loreto region and the last paved stop on highway 5N. If you're coming by road, it's about 130 km northeast of Tarapoto through the cloud forests of the Cordillera Escalera. Yurimaguas may not be the end of the world, but it is the end of the road. There are many canoes and larger boats that will ferry you across the river, upstream, or downstream. If you plan on visiting Iquitos, much further into the Amazon region, you will have to take a boat, as there are no roads to Iquitos. Your other option is to return to Tarapoto and take a plane.

Juanjuí, Perú

July 12, 2025

Juanjuí, Perú is the capital of the Mariscal Cáceres Province in the heart of San Martín. It is home to about 55,000 people. The Huallaga River runs right alongside town, carving a wide valley between the Cordillera Central and the Cordillera Azul. Along the river, there is one 2-block-long area of park space and restaurants, referred to as their tourist area.

Before the Spanish arrived, the area was marked by conflict, with many rival native groups fighting for control of the land. When the Spanish missionaries arrived, they forcibly organized these diverse ethnic groups into "reducciones" (missions) and relocated them into unfamiliar territory. It's a familiar story, one that mirrors the experiences of Indigenous communities in North America. Those who resisted were labeled "infidels." Juanjuí was officially recognized as a district in 1866, elevated to villa in 1906, and was finally given city status in 1927. That promotion didn't sit well with Sapasoa, the former provincial capital. The rivalry turned heated, with both towns fighting over political control. Eventually, in 1940, the national government settled the dispute by creating a new province, naming Juanjuí as its capital.

Tingo María, Perú

July 10, 2025

Tucked in the heart of Perú's Selva Central, Tingo María is where the Andes exhale, and the Amazon begins. This lively town, capital of Leoncio Prado Province in the Huánuco region, was officially founded in 1938 as part of a government colonization effort. Thanks to its strategic location along the Huallaga River and the central highway, it quickly grew into a hub of agricultural trade. Today, it has a population of around 46,000 and serves as a vibrant crossroads between jungle and highland.