Roaming South America

Pozuzo and Codo del Pozuzo, Perú

July 7, 2025

Pozuzo and Codo del Pozuzo are both located on the eastern side of the Andes Mountains in central Per?. After my visit to Huancabamba I went to Pozuzo. Pozuzo is a very nice town, apparently more on the high-middle class level, as was Huancabamba. But, the big difference here is the people - they do not say 'buenos dias' or 'buenas tardes' etc. When I say those the few that respond give little more than a mumble. The town itself is pretty, the plaza, the valley around. I like it here, it's just the people - they are not as friendly as the previous couple of towns.

Huancabamba, Perú

July 3, 2025

Huancabamba is a tiny town and district of Oxapampa Province. This mountain town sits at around 1,666 meters above sea level, surrounded by mountains with orchids scattered all throughout and the crystal-clear waters of the Huancabamba River.

With just around 1,000 inhabitants, it's only about five blocks square, compact, peaceful, and refreshingly unpretentious in a region better known for bigger stops like Oxapampa or Pozuzo.

There's not a lot to the town, obviously, considering its tiny size, but they do have a nice central plaza. It's a simple, quiet main square with a gazebo and a replica of a sailing ship, and lots of shade trees and benches.

Villa Rica, Perú

July 2, 2025

Almost hidden off the main highway, on the eastern slopes of the Andes, Villa Rica sits at1,460 meters above sea level in the Oxapampa Province of the Pasco department in central Perú. ItsWikipedia entry outlines the essentials - founding in 1925 by German immigrants, it gained its status for its coffee,and 2017's 18,763 population - it doesn't capture the texture of daily life, cultural collisions, or why this placestays in your mind long after you've left.

We know the Franciscan mission at Cerro de la Sal began in 1635 and faced rebellion under JuanSantos Atahualpa in the 1740s, it's less known how local Yánesha communities bypassed Spanish control for morethan a century afterward.

San Martín de Pangoa, Perú

June 28, 2025

I'm in San Martín de Pangoa, Perú. This is a town in "La Selva Central" region - the central part of Perú on the Amazon side of the Andes Mtns. I hiked from Mazamari to Pangoa, it took 3 hours and 22 minutes, hotel to hotel. That was with my backpack of about 17 kilos (37 pounds), and two stops for snacks and drinks. My backpack isn't so heavy because I am not carrying camping gear, I stay in hotels/hostels/residencias/hospedajes. In South America those are all basically the same, the only real difference is in the cost per night. Residendencias and hospedajes are the least expensive, and most basic. But today I got a room for 30 Soles (less than US$10) per night and it has a queen-size bed, nightstand, desk/chair, 40" TV. I've had hotel rooms with less for more money. This place is called Hostal El Encanto de la Selva, it's one black from the main plaza.

Mazamari, Perú

June 25, 2025

I'm in Mazamari, Perú, again. My first visit here was in February, 2023; my second visit wasJuly, 2023; and my third visit was in April 2024. I like this little nothing-special town. It's so little it has nosupermarket and a few ATMs. The town has three official parks and one green area alongside the river, which runsthrough the edge of town, which is only about five or six blocks from the town center.

This past weekend, Mazamari, Perú celebrated its 60th anniversary with four full days ofmusic, dancing, street parades, and beer-fueled tradition. I arrived one day late, but still caught plenty of theaction - horn bands blasting through the streets, dancers in colorful costumes, and entire neighborhoods sharing beerswhenever the unmistakable call of Chonguinada or Tunantada rang out. According to one young woman I spoke with, thosemusic styles are basically "beer songs". The bands will parade around town, one by one, through the neighborhoods, andstop to play in front of some houses. The people in the houses are supposed to come out and share beers with the bands.They continue all throughout the town. The weekend was loud, chaotic, and unforgettable. And quite interesting, to saythe least.