Roaming South America

The Inca Empire is Gone, but the Inca People are here to stay

May 6, 2026

One question I've been curious about while traveling through the Andes is this: Did the Spanish wipe out the Incas? The answer is: No. The empire fell, the rulers were executed, and the cities were taken over. You would think it was the end of their civilization. But the reality is very different. The Spanish destroyed the Inca ruling structure, not the Inca people. Their descendants are still here, all across the Andes.

Finding the Quiet: Why My Shortlist for a New Home Ignores the Coast

March 5, 2026

What is it about coastal towns that makes them pretty much always "messier"? I'm talking specifically about these countries: Colombia, Ecuador, Perú, Chile, and Uruguay. The vast majority of interior towns are almost always cleaner, friendlier, prettier, etc.

I'm not imagining it. This pattern shows up everywhere I've been, and that includes 7 countries and over 300 towns/cities (in South America), and it’s not a cultural coincidence. It’s geography, economics, and human behavior piling up in the same places.

Here’s the straight, unsentimental anatomy of why coastal towns skew messier, while interior towns often feel cleaner, calmer, and more human. The comparisons below are to be taken with a very general understanding.

My South America Journey - A Brief Summary - Part 3

November 26, 2025

I’ve finally settled into Roldanillo, Colombia, where I’ll be for at least five months. Maybe longer, maybe not, residency is technically an option, but I doubt I’ll spend my days wrestling with immigration offices when I could be drinking coffee in the plaza. Besides, residency in Perú and Ecuador is easier than in Colombia. Before I get too comfortable, I want to rewind and share the trip that brought me here: a winding route through Peru, Ecuador, and into Colombia.

When “Adiós” Doesn’t Mean Goodbye

October 29, 2025

Today, as I walked down the street (here in Roldanillo, Valle del Cauca, Colombia), an older woman stood in her doorway as she does every day. I walk this block almost every day as it is between where I live and downtown. She smiled, raised a hand, and said, ‘¡Adiós!’, same as she does every day. I waved, said, "buenas tardes," and then kept walking. This has happened in all seven countries I have visited in South America, not just once or twice, but consistently.

Formosa, Argentina

December 7, 2024

Formosa, Argentina, a city of about 235,000 in the urban area, sits on the river border with Paraguay, a few hours south of Asunción, Paraguay (capital of Paraguay). I visited Formosa about a year and-a-half ago and wrote that I liked this small city, I also wrote that it is quiet. And that still stands. And, now they are doing more reclamation work alongside the river which will extend the park space.