Roaming South America

Babahoyo, Ecuador

September 1, 2025

Babahoyo, Ecuador—home to just under 100,000 people—sits in the lowland plains west of the Andes. Though it’s far from the coast, it’s officially part of the 'Costa' region—one of Ecuador’s three major zones: the Coast (Costa), the Mountains (Sierra), and the Jungle (Selva). Babahoyo, AKA Santa Rita de Babahoyo. The word Babahoyo comes from the Chorrera culture and means "dark hawk," referring to the snail hawk, a bird that lives in the rice fields and feeds on snails. During the colonial era, Babahoyo was known as Bodegas de Babahoyo - Warehouses of Babahoyo - because the Customs and Royal Warehouses were located here, controlling trade between Guayaquil and the cities of the Ecuadorian Andes Mountains.
Wikipedia

A Bit of History

Babahoyo dates back to ancient times, with the Babahuyus Indians, who were members of the Huancavilca confederation. In 1535, they fought very strongly against the Spanish conquerors, but it was to no avail. Once the region was controlled by the Spanish, it was organized as a tenencia (Spanish holdings) in 1596, dependent on the administration of Guayaquil. Two days after Guayaquil announced its independence from Spain, Babahoyo announced their independence from Spain.
Wikipedia

Geography and Climate all in one

This central region of Ecuador, west of the Andes, is a vast plain, basically flat as a pancake. The elevation of the city is a whopping 8 meters (26 feet) above sea level. Two rivers merge here in town, the Rio San Pablo and the Rio Catarama, they both then form the Rio Babahoyo which in turn continues to Guayaquil. There it is joined by the Rio Daule, and it takes on the name the Rio Guayas. Then that feeds into the Pacific Ocean. Babahoyo experiences a typical savanna climate, that means it typically has high temperatures. The dry season (June and October) coincides with the coldest months and the rainy season (November to May) with the warmest. The seasons are not noticeable in the equatorial zone , however, its proximity to the Pacific Ocean means that the Humboldt (cold) and El Niño (warm) currents mark two very distinct climatic periods: a rainy and warm winter , which runs from November to May, and a dry and slightly cooler "summer", between June and October. The afternoon temperatures are generally 28-32° C (82-90° F), and the nightly lows are generally around 20-23° C (68-73° F).
Wikipedia

Crime in Babahoyo: What's Going On?

I was out for a walk, and went to the mall, a small, modern mall. When entering, there is a security guy who wands everyone who comes in, as well as purses, bags, backpacks, etc. And, probably 90% or more of the businesses in the city close up tight before 7pm. It's very strange for a city this size. Here's what I found out:

• July 2025: A bloody weekend saw seven murders in just two days—three on Saturday, and four more on Sunday, including a tragic killing of a father, his teenage son, and an elderly man in Pueblo Nuevo
  El Diario
• August 2025: A 26-year-old man was shot dead inside his home in the Muñoz Rubio neighborhood, with police already identifying suspects
  RTS Siempre Contigo
• January 2025: A triple homicide occurred as three young men riding a motorcycle were gunned down in the streets of Babahoyo
  El Universo

I also discovered this localized crime problem actually extends throughout the coastal region, and into Quevedo, my next stop. There are several criminal organizations, including Los Choneros (and offshoots: ChoneKillers, Los Lobos, Los Pipos, Los Tiguerones). Those subgangs, offshoots, became gangs of their own and have been "at war" with each other and Los Choneros. The source of all of this was in 2021 in several prisons and the murder of the leader of Los Choneros - Jorge Zambrano. His successor, "Fito" Villamar caused those groups to break off and start the wars for leadership. The history goes on with all kinds of prison riots, murders, escapes, and so on. Today, in some parts of Ecuador, primarily the coastal region, the violence continues.
Wikipedia

Attractions and Sites

There's not a lot here for tourists.

• There's Cachari Hill, best seen as part of a tourist group. It's outside of town, not too far, but reports say it's best to be part of a group, for security.
• There's the Isabel María Sugar Mill (Ingenio azucarero isabel maría) alongside the river about 15 minutes in the opposite direction. This is where a "tola," or tomb, of a Cacique chief was found, and the Chorrera and Tejar haciendas, where archaeological remains of the culture have been found at these sites; the tolas built by indigenous people belonging to the Las Tolas or Milagro-Quevedo culture. I didn't go and I haven't found any photos on the internet, so if it's actually a place one can visit - I don't know.
• The town's malecon. Some parts are quite nice, others not so nice. It's fairly long, alongside the river. There are two footbridges giving access to the neighborhoods on the other side of the river.
• The Babahoyo River - you might be able to find a tour boat, they're supposed to be available. I haven't seen any.

Wikipedia

Great Restaurant - Balsa Blanca

The standout experience in Babahoyo? Balsa Blanca—a riverside restaurant at the Muelle Municipal. It’s floating on the river and attached to the malecón between Barreiro and Mejía streets. Not only was the food excellent, but the owners were the only truly friendly people I met in this town. Turns out, they’re from Catamayo—which explains the warmth. One of them even mentioned he rents out canoes for river exploration.
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My Impressions

Babahoyo doesn’t have those gawd-awful moto-taxis, but the endless buzzing of small-engine motorcycles gets old fast—especially the guys who insist on throttle-peacocking down every street. The malecón is long but underwhelming, and the opposite bank (also labeled 'Malecón') is best avoided. Litter is more common than I’ve seen in months of travel on the mountain or jungle sides of Ecuador. Almost three years ago I had the same impression in Santo Domingo, directly north. Maybe it’s just me, but I don’t much care for Ecuador’s coastal region.