Roaming South America

Catamayo, Ecuador

August 12, 2025

After four days in Catamayo, Ecuador, I’ve decided this town has officially claimed the top spot on my list of potential new hometowns. The standout difference compared to Moyobamba, Peru, is simple but huge: there are no moto-taxis or three-wheeled motorcycles here. Zero. None. Without that constant swarm of buzzing engines, the streets are quieter, the traffic flows more smoothly, and the air is blissfully free of that familiar haze of exhaust. And, Catamayo is only an hour drive west of Loja, so a reasonably big city isn't far away, if needed.

It’s not just the lack of noise and fumes—it’s the feeling of calm that comes with it. Walking around town feels more relaxed, and conversations aren’t drowned out by a motorbike rattling past. The air quality is noticeably better, which, after spending time in places with heavy moto traffic, is something you start appreciating very quickly.

The surrounding low mountains might not be quite as lush and green as those around Moyobamba, but the trade-off is worth it. The scenery is still beautiful, and the town itself sits in a wide valley that gives it a spacious, open feel.

Catamayo has a population of roughly 30,000 people, giving it the kind of scale where you can get to know your neighbors but still find what you need without heading to a bigger city. The climate is warm and generally sunny, with a dry season that keeps the air clear and a short rainy season that refreshes the surrounding countryside.

For me as a cyclist, the Catamayo valley is a game-changer. Roads are generally more open, flatter, and friendlier to cyclists compared to the steep, shoulderless mountain routes around Moyobamba. Here, you can actually enjoy the ride instead of bracing for every passing truck or bus.

This is my third visit here, and each time I’ve found more to like. I’ve written about Catamayo before, but now, after a longer stay, I can say it - this place isn’t just a nice stop along the way. It’s somewhere I could see myself calling home.

Why Catamayo Works for Me

• No moto-taxis – Quieter streets, cleaner air, and less chaos.
• Better cycling conditions – More open, manageable roads in the valley.
• Comfortable climate – Warm, sunny days most of the year.
• Manageable size – Big enough for conveniences, small enough to feel like a community.
• Calm atmosphere – Less traffic, less noise, more peace.