Roaming South America

Chota and Cutervo, Perú

August 3, 2025

I visted the towns of Chota (population about 50,000, founded in 1562) and Cutervo (population about 51,000, founded in 1560), Perú, this week. Visiting Chota and Cutervo feels like stepping into a quieter, higher-altitude world - where life slows down, the air is cool, and history clings to every hillside. These two towns are both in the middle of the Andes Mountains in Northern Perú. Being in the mountains neither of these town have much in the way of level roads - they pretty much all go up or down. Chota sits at an average of 2388 meters (7834 feet) and Cutervo sits at about 2647 meters (8684 feet). The daytime afternoon temps I am seeing are under 20° C (68 ° F). Which I am finding to be too cold. Chota is known as the "Bullfighting capital of Northern Perú."

Brief histories of Chota and Cutervo

Chota's history stretches beyond the Incas. Chota sit on top of the acunta plateau. Archeological sites like Pacopampa and Chetilla bear traces of Chavín, Wari, and Moche influence, highlighting its ancient role in the broader Cajamarca cultural network.

Cutervo and its neighboring districts contain rock art, ancient ceramics, and other artifacts pointing to human presence at least 4,000 years ago. Under the Wari cultural sphere, it later became the land of the Guambos before being absorbed into the Inca Empire circa 1460. Both towns were conquered and annexed by the Incas in the 1460s.

Chota: A Pre-Inca and Inca Epicenter

• Chota's history stretches back to pre-Inca times, when it was part of the ancient Cajamarca kingdom. Archaeological sites such as Pacopampa, Negropampa, Rejopampa, Chiguirip, Chetilla, and others display influences from the Chavín, Wari, and Moche cultures.
• These sites reveal pottery, chullpas (burial towers), and architectural traces that reflect diverse cultural layers—from Huambos in the west to Chetilla in the east.
• Later, around the mid-1400s, the region was incorporated by Inca ruler Túpac Yupanqui, integrating into the Tawantinsuyo.

Cutervo: Pre-Inca Roots Beneath Andean Slopes

• The Cutervo region features prehistoric pictographs, ancient ceramics, and metal tools, with some rock art in districts like Pion, Sócota, and San Juan estimated to be over 4,000 years old.
• Archaeologists identify the area’s early inhabitants as part of the Wari cultural sphere, later inhabited by Guambos (or Huambos) prior to Inca expansion.
• Around c. 1460, the region was annexed into the Inca Empire under Túpac Yupanqui, becoming a wamani (province) within the Chinchaysuyu administrative system.

Chota's and Cutervo's Cathedrals

Both towns have beautiful cathedrals at their main plazas. The Cathedral of Chota was build between 1884-1912, after the original church was destroyed during the War of the Pacific in 1882. The Cathedral of Cutervo was built between 1863-1868. Their original colonial-era church collapsed in 1848. The Cutervo cathedral is notable as the only 19th-century church in northern Cajamarca and has National Cultural Heritage status.

Cutervo National Park and Cerro Ilucán

Cutervo is the gateway to Perús first national park - Cutervo National Park, which is rich in biodiversity and dramatic cloud-forest landscapes. But, next to the city is Cerro Ilucán. There is a very well designed tourist viewpoint on the side with great views of the town and the entire valley. Also, about 30 minutes’ walk above Cutervo’s mirador on Cerro Ilucán, you’ll find Los Arenales, literally "the sands". It's a broad white sand plain that looks like a field of powdered quartz spun from the clouds. It’s strange and wonderful to stand there: sand underfoot at 3,000 meters (probably the last thing you would expect to see at that elevation), orchids and pines in the background, and the town far below. Geologists say it’s eroded quartz remnants, locals say it’s the hill’s divine gift. Either way, Montaña meets playa (mountain meets beach)- and you’ll never forget the contrast.

The towns themselves

Both of these towns have narrow streets, particularly in the city centers. The majority of the streets are one-lane, one-way with narrow sidewalks. Both towns are built on the mountainsides, so pretty much all the streets are either up or down with very few actually level. And, both towns are clean, that is, litter free.

Neither of these towns are "must see Perú destinations" but if you want to see authentic, real Perú, make a sidetrip and visit either of these towns, you might find it quite interesting.